Culture in Dar
es Salaam Part 1
This week we will start our two part
series of cultural riches in
Dar es Salaam, with a look at the Alliance Francaise, the Botanical Gardens and
the National Library
By Mary Wright
As la politesse is so importante, let us begin our cultural tour
with la France, always seen as a lady. The Alliance Francaise is on Ali Hassan
Mwinyi Road, in an attractive setting, a walk bordered with palm trees leads up
to it. The Zimbabwean Embassy is at the side as one approaches ….well, we know
we can’t always choose our neighbours. I entered the premises of the Alliance
Francaise having passed through the wrought-iron gate, and found a spacious
hallway with lecture rooms placed on two sides, a well-equipped library was on
the third side and finally an exhibition room where a series of pictures of
African herbs and healers was on display. All the personnel I met spoke to me in
French, quelle merveille!
The director, Monsieur Luc Goudmand, although very busy, was kind enough to give
me a rundown of the centre’s aims and activities. There are French classes to
suit all types of people, and the levels go from elementary to the very highest.
It is an institution which is linked to an international network, whose diploma
is recognized in France and throughout the world.
There are many cultural activities: concerts, lectures, exhibitions….and every
week the programme changes. It is not only a promotion of Francophone culture,
but Tanzanian artists are much encouraged and the Tanzanian culture is
consistently highlighted. The centre is associated at this present time with the
International Film Festival of the Dhow Countries that just ended in Zanzibar.
Already this year have been put on 4 concerts, 4 exhibitions, 3 public lectures
and a theatrical performance. This very week, in fact today, there is a soiree
dansante because the 14th July is the French National Day. This commemorates the
Storming of the Bastille in 1789. The Bastille was the prison wherein were held
prisoners, often political prisoners who had been denounced by somebody, and the
event stands for the removal of tyranny.
Last but not least, at the Alliance Francaise, on the second floor there is a
restaurant, where you can expect that wonderful cooking and those exquisite
dishes you’ve always heard about. Better wait for your birthday because it’ll
cost you a pretty penny, and go at lunchtime because it closes at 5 o’clock, but
then, if I know anything about French meals you’ll need the rest of the day to
recover.
To keep in touch with what’s going on at the centre you can use the e-mail
address: afdar@africaonline.co.tz. Forthcoming events include the 25th
anniversary of Solidarnosk, a celebration of Polish freedom, in association with
the Polish embassy, and in September an exhibition of Abyssinian art.
If one continues along Samora Avenue in the direction of Ocean Road, going past
the British Council, the Ministry of Finance, Ministry of Health until one
reaches the Museum, and further on the impressive Karimjee Hall, then, on the
opposite side is a green space, wherein the wanderer can enter via a
wrought-iron gate, and sit to rest a while on one of the numerous stone seats.
How pleasant to sit in the shade, surrounded by plants and trees, even if, to
tell the truth, it is a bit untidy and the buildings quite ramshackle. Amongst
the gardeners or guards you’ll find (assuming that it’s a time when the office
is closed) a guide to show you the plant nurseries and the collections of
seedlings for trees, especially fruit trees like paw-paws and citrus fruits, and
varieties of flowers. You can buy these seedlings if you like. This is the
Botanical Gardens, whose appeal is enhanced considerably by the beautiful, tall
building behind, which is the Holiday Inn, and by the presence of numerous
peacocks parading around; the males in all their splendour of beautiful tail
folded up but ready to be displayed.
The gardens were originally founded by the Germans in 1893. There were great
ambitions for them, but success proved difficult to achieve because of alkaline
soil, inadequate fresh water supply and termites. At one time there were 35
species of palms to be found, and many survive today. Much experimental work on
plants has been carried out in these gardens, but a complementary nursery was
eventually established in Morogoro where conditions are more favourable and
where serious scientific research can be better carried on. However, in Dar es
Salaam the gardens have remained as a social amenity, as well as a centre for
producing seedlings.
Of all the cultural treasures that a city can possess, the most important is a
library. In Dar es Salaam it is situated in Bibi Titi Road, just where what is
appropriately called Maktaba Road meets it, having come up from the Askari
Monument on Samora Avenue. Its necessity is shown by the fact that it is packed
with readers, mainly young students, from morn till night. When you come in by
the main entrance on the first floor, after passing the security desk you’ll
find yourself in the area of the lending library. Although not a massive
collection it has books by most of the major writers in English, and a good
selection of magazines.
Turning to the right you’ll find yourself in the reference section, home to
numerous dictionaries, encyclopedias and other works of general interest.
Adjoining this vast reading room is another which is reserved for students
aiming at higher studies. What has impressed me most in this library is the
helpfulness of the staff.